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美食索引:被誉为是香港最美味的烤鸡「黄土鸡」

放大字体  缩小字体 发布日期:2011-04-20
核心提示:香港鸳鸯饭店(Yin Yang restaurant)的主厨徐蒝 (Margaret Xu)自认是一名D.I.Y.狂人。她的招牌菜烤鸡被香港的许多美食家都誉为是香港最美味的烤鸡~~


有关她的招牌菜烤鸡的一切都是从头做起,包括这道菜成功的秘密所在:徐蒝用她花园中的两个罐子做成的一款定制赤陶烤炉。她说,她自己制成的烤炉比普通烤炉受热更加均匀,还能够达到更高的温度。

不要被这种烤鸡的原始和朴素所迷惑了。徐蒝对制作过程的每一步都会精心考虑,不会放过任何细微之处。成品出来了——这是一道颇为考究、令人垂涎欲滴的菜,正式名称叫做黄土鸡。



当地有机鸡:徐蒝选取了香港有名的龙岗鸡,这种鸡以皮薄且脂肪含量适中而闻名。这些鸡在当地喂养,因而它们不含激素,平常吃的食物中还加入了玉米,徐蒝认为这也是鸡肉的味道更加发甜的原因。

调味:徐蒝并不是将鸡浸泡在卤汁中入味,而是把一种调味酱涂抹到鸡身内部,这种酱料由咖喱叶(她自己种的)、杜衡(也是她种的)、应季的果酒(她自酿的)以及特级初榨橄榄油(她亲自从意大利带回的)制成。在45分钟的烹制过程中——温度将超过260摄氏度——这些味道会渗透到整只鸡当中。烤制之前在鸡皮上撒上少许粗海盐就可以了。

鸡皮
:不同于其它烤鸡,徐蒝烹制的烤鸡鸡皮吃起来十分酥脆,而为了做出这种口感,她在烤制时会吊住鸡脖,将鸡挂在烤炉内的一个小圆环上(这样一来,汁液就不会流到鸡身上了)。如果使用旋转式烤肉架,鸡油会回流渗入鸡皮,而采用徐蒝的方法则确保了所有鸡油都直接流入底部,这才有了鸡皮的酥脆口感。徐蒝补充说,我们有时会回收这些鸡油,用来炒饭给员工当工作餐。

手撕肉:无论你平常爱吃鸡胸肉还是鸡腿肉,面对这一盘汁多味美的鸡肉,你都不会失望。这道鸡肉上菜时是整只鸡端上桌,然后服务生在桌边用手一块块将其撕开(当然是戴上手套),因为用刀切的话会挤压鸡肉,汁儿就会流出来。

售价:328港元(约合42美元,需提前预订)
地址:香港湾仔船街18号鸳鸯饭店 电话:852- 2866-0868


英文阅读:
Chef Margaret Xu, of Hong Kong's Yin Yang restaurant, is a self-professed 'D.I.Y. freak.' And everything about her signature roast chicken is made from scratch, including the secret to its success: a custom terra-cotta oven that Ms. Xu made from two pots in her garden. She says her oven creation provides better heat distribution and reaches higher temperatures than a regular oven.

Don't be fooled by the simplicity of her roast chicken. Ms. Xu considers every step and subtle detail. The final product ' a well-edited and satisfying dish formally called 'Yellow earth chicken' ' has been proclaimed by many Hong Kong foodies as the best roast chicken in the city.

Local organic chicken: Ms. Xu uses a famous breed of Lung Kung chicken from Hong Kong, which is known for its thinner skin and medium amount of fat. The chickens are raised locally, so they are hormone-free and fed on a diet consisting partly of corn, which she believes accounts for a sweeter flavor in the flesh.

Seasoning: Rather than marinate her chicken, Ms. Xu actually seasons the inside cavity with a paste made from curry leaves (that she grows), wild ginger (also grown by her), seasonal fruit wine (that she ferments), and extra virgin olive oil (that she hand-carried from Italy). During the 45-minute cooking time ' a tempurature of higher than 260 degrees Celsius ' the flavors permeate the entire bird. Only a light sprinkling of course sea salt is added to the skin just before cooking.

Skin: To achieve the crunch in the chicken skin that's unique to her dish, Ms. Xu roasts her chicken by hanging it by the neck on a small circular rim inside the oven (that way the juices from the cavity don't drip out). Unlike a rotisserie, where the chicken fat drips back onto the skin, this ensures that all the fat falls straight to the bottom, and makes for an extra crispy skin. 'We sometimes save the fat to make fried rice for our staff meals,' adds Ms. Xu.

Hand-shredded meat: Whether you're a white- or dark-meat fan, you won't be disappointed by the succulent array. The entire bird is hand-shredded tableside (with gloves, of course) since chopping down with a knife would press down on the flesh and cause the juices to run out of it.

Price: 328 Hong Kong dollars, or US$42 (must order in advance)
Yin Yang, 18 Ship St., Wan Chai, Hong Kong. Tel:852- 2866-0868


相关阅读:美食索引-上好牛排!
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关键词: 烤鸡 黄土鸡 龙岗鸡
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