| |
中国的大运河流经杭州,向北一直蜿蜒至北京,沿着空旷的杭千高速公路行驶两个小时,就可以抵达占地580平方公里的千岛湖。千岛湖的确可谓是世界上最美丽的水库,也是中国生态旅游中心。不过,杭州市内面积6平方公里的西湖,以其亭台寺院、竹林幽径、茶园以及断桥残雪、柳浪闻莺和南屏晚钟等西湖十大美景,吸引着慕名前来的游客们。
The quality of the tea served at the Dragon Well itself (called “Tea Enquiry at Dragon Well” on tourist maps) is outstanding and local tea mania is such that even the water used to make it is prized, fetched from a source two miles away called “To Dream of the Tiger-Pawing Spring”. Tea, as you see, draws out the poetry in the pragmatic Chinese. An evening in a Hangzhou tea house such as Charenchun or one of the three He Cha Guan (“Peace Houses”) proves, to any European who had previously considered moderate alcohol intake essential to a good night out, not merely educative but positively enlightening. The kettle stands nearby, bubbling gently; the glasses are constantly refilled; the table is kept supplied with watermelon and lychees, with pumpkin seeds, with dried fish strips, with lotus-paste cake, with sesame wafers. 龙井供应的茶叶(旅游地图上称“龙井问茶”)质量上乘,当地茶迷对泡茶所用的水颇为讲究,要从两里以外的“虎跑梦泉”汲水。正如大家所见,茶能带出务实中国人性格中诗意的那一面。对于那些曾经认为适度饮酒能让人在外度过一个美好夜晚的欧洲人来说,在杭州的茶坊消磨一个晚上,例如“茶人居”或“和茶馆”三家店中的一家,不仅能学到许多茶的知识,还可以让人得到积极的启发。身边茶壶中的水缓缓地烧开;有人不时为你斟上水;桌上不停供应着西瓜和荔枝等水果,以及南瓜子、干鱼条、莲蓉蛋糕和芝麻饼干等小点。
Sipping great green tea is like sipping springtime itself – it brings an entirely sober elation, and the sense of cultured elegance is heightened further by the traditional furniture, decorations and costumes of those serving and (if you're lucky) by the music, too. If you're not and it's gone schmaltzy, return to the lake, where traditional musicians play together on the warm evenings, for nothing but the fun of it, as the moon rises. 品尝上等的绿茶,如同品味春天的感觉——它带给你完全放松的心情,而茶室里古典的家具、传统的装饰和服务员的服装,以及缭绕室内的音乐,使这种文雅精致的感觉更为强烈。如果你找不到这种感觉,可以回到西湖边,在怡人的夜晚,月亮升起的时候,传统音乐家们会聚在一起演奏,享受音乐。
The greatest wall of China hides inside the human mouth: nothing is more insurmountable to travellers and residents alike than the hurdles of two vastly dissimilar languages. Dozens will call a cheery “Hello” to you as you walk past but any attempt at conversation in English swiftly dissolves into laughing incomprehension and even those who might be expected to have some English (such as hotel desk staff) are often still monoglot. 中国最大的障碍在于语言:对游客和本地人来说,再没有比两种截然不同的语言更加难以逾越的障碍了。当你在路上走过时,许多人会欢快地以“Hello”向你打招呼,但你要想以英语与他们交谈时,他们很快会笑笑表示语言不通,即便是那些应该掌握一点英语的人(例如酒店柜台职员)通常也只会说中文。
Guide books in English are rare and the heroic calamities of Chinglish will amuse even where they fail to inform. (Among my treasures is the airline towelette called Hygiene Wet Turban Needless Wash.) 英文的导游书非常罕见,四处泛滥的中式英语表达令人发笑,让人摸不着头脑。(我记得最清楚的事之一是,飞机上的湿纸巾被翻译成“Hygiene Wet Turban Needless Wash”。)
Those Chinese who do have some English often find comprehension easier if words are written out carefully. Phrase books are very helpful on the same basis, in that the relevant Chinese characters can be shown. Not everything is difficult, though: dual language road signs are ubiquitous and China's airports and internal flight network is hugely impressive, as are its free-flowing toll roads. City travel is easiest via China's cheap taxis (whose drivers happily do not require tipping), though driving styles are cavalier. 那些懂得一点英语的中国人通常会发现,如果把英语单词仔细写出来的话,沟通会更容易一些。因此,英语习惯用语书籍非常有用,因为书上会相应地标明中文。不过,并非事事都是那么困难:双语路标比比皆是,中国的机场和国内航线令人印象深刻,其通畅的收费公路亦是如此。在中国的城市,便宜的出租车是最便利的交通工具(令人高兴的是,中国的出租车司机不会向你索取小费),他们开车也很有风度。
Eating out in restaurants is low stress, too, since many of the largest work on the principle of a vast bank of fish tanks full of live fish and shellfish (as well as sea snakes), glass boxes full of doom-laden chickens and, on occasion, cages of miserable, jaw-clamped alligators, as well as simpler dishes whose raw ingredients are already assembled and then cling-filmed, or cold dim sum piled high ready for steaming. Menus are entirely unnecessary. You point; they kill; you eat. 外出去餐馆就餐也不用担心,因为许多大餐馆的经营之道是,在店里陈列装满新鲜鱼和贝类(以及海蛇)的巨大鱼缸,以及装着鸡的玻璃箱子,偶尔还有可怜的、嘴巴被夹住的鳄鱼的笼子,以及放着原材料、然后覆上食品薄膜的简单菜品样盘,或是堆得高高的、等待上笼蒸熟的冷糕点。因此点菜完全不需要菜单。你指向哪道菜,他们就为你做什么。
共4页: 上一页 [1] [2] 3 [4] 下一页 |